Tag Archives: Food waste

When things go wrong in the kitchen…

Wisley Oct 2019 lake
RHS Wisley – on a rare fine Sunday

With a crazily busy working schedule throughout October, wet weekends have at least afforded me the opportunity to bake, and using up windfall apples has been high on the agenda, with lots of apples falling off the trees much earlier than I’d usually expect. I made my go-to apple favourites including spiced apple shortbread, traditional apple pie, apple juice and apple compote in various guises, but when a colleague on the Foodie Translators Facebook page posted a recipe for apple cider doughnuts similar to the ones we’d tasted in an apple farm in New England back in September, I was tempted to experiment. Unfortunately, the recipe was an American one and, despite using proper measuring cups, I somehow came unstuck. It’s not often I have culinary disasters, but this was one such day. I used self-raising flour with only 1 tsp baking powder, rather than the 1 1/2 tsp the recipe recommends, so that could have been an issue, as could the dilemma of how to measure solid butter in tablespoons. Turns out (thanks to my American daughter-in-law for enlightening me later) that the American ‘sticks’ of butter (so-called because they are long narrow sticks, half the weight of our 250g (8oz) slabs) are marked in tablespoons – of course they are! Whatever I did wrong, the mixture rose like a soufflé, then promptly sank again, spreading all down the sides of my muffin cases and ring moulds. It steadfastly refused to set, so I ended up leaving it in much longer than the recipe suggested – with the upshot, when they finally came out and cooled, that they were nothing more than crumbs! Tasty crumbs admittedly, but crumbs nonetheless. Reluctant to throw them away, I scraped them out of the tins and these are the two recipes I salvaged them in – very satisfying that my disaster actually turned into two delicious creations and another bag of crumbs in the freezer – waste not, want not :-).

The first was a vaguely remembered childhood treat: chocolate rum truffles, but made with cake crumbs rather than the more decadent ganache truffles you buy from upmarket chocolate shops. These are not dissimilar to the inside of that Viennese classic, the delightfully pink Punschtorte, but without the lurid pink icing. I scoured my cookbooks and the internet, without finding exactly what I wanted, then cobbled together something along the lines of what I remembered and hoped to achieve – success!

Chocolate Rum Truffles – makes 12

Chocolate rum truffles

6oz cake crumbs (any sponge cake will do – mine were spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg, but that’s not essential)
4oz ground almonds
2 heaped tbsp good jam (I used gooseberry, but plum or apricot would work too)
1 tbsp cocoa powder, sifted
1 tbsp caster sugar
2 tbsp dark rum
4oz dark chocolate, to coat (or use chocolate vermicelli)

Blitz crumbs in a food processor, then add the ground almonds, caster sugar and sifted cocoa powder. Warm the jam and sieve to remove any lumps, then stir into the mixture with the rum – or mix on a low speed if using a food processor. Mould into 12 balls and place in cake cases. Leave to set in the fridge before melting the chocolate (I do mine in the microwave at 80% for 1 minute, followed by 30-second blasts, stirring each time, until just melted, but you can melt in the traditional way in a bowl over a pan of simmering water if you prefer). Coat the truffle balls by dipping in the melted chocolate using a fork, or kitchen tongs, then set on baking paper before returning to the cases. Enjoy – all the better if you’ve rescued the crumbs from a culinary disaster in the first place!

My next crumb salvage operation was inspired by a suggestion from another colleague on Foodie Translators, although I have had this recipe in one of my ancient cookery leaflets for a while. This particular glossy leaflet was a forerunner of the popular dairy cookbooks that came out in the early 80s, and was given to me by another translator colleague and good friend many years ago. Called “Clever with Cream”, it is, as you’d expect, all about using cream in many different ways. This recipe comes under the “Crème Continental” page and has the enchanting name of “Danish Peasant Girl with a Veil” (Bondepige med Slor in Danish!). As ever, I ended up adapting the recipe to suit what I had on hand, but it worked very well – can’t think why I haven’t made it before!

Danish Peasant Girl with a Veil – serves 2-3

Danish Peasant Girl with Veil

2-3 large eating apples
Juice and rind of half a lemon
1 tsp cinnamon
sugar to taste
4oz cake crumbs
1oz butter
1 tbsp Demerara sugar
1/4 pint double cream, whipped

Slice apples, sprinkle with lemon and cinnamon and cook gently with a dash of water in a pan (or in the microwave) until tender. You can add sugar if you like, but this will depend on the sweetness of your apples. I used a Cox variety and they really don’t need any extra sugar. Stir in the lemon rind. Set aside to cool.

Set oven to 180°C fan/Gas 5. Melt the butter in a small frying pan and fry the crumbs until crisp and golden, stirring continuously. Watch them like a hawk as they can catch very quickly! Stir in the Demerara sugar.

Place half the crumb mixture at the bottom of a small greased ovenproof dish – I used a straight-sided soufflé dish about 6″ in diameter – then add the cooled apple compote, straining off any excess liquid beforehand. Finish with another layer of crumbs, then place in the preheated oven for 15-20 minutes, checking to make sure it doesn’t get too brown. Remove from the oven and allow to chill before topping with a swirly layer of whipped cream. Decorate as you wish – I used dried apple rings, but you could also use toasted flaked almonds or spare toasted crumbs.

Wisley Oct 2019 orange tree
RHS Wisley again – so glad the sun shone for once

 

What to do with black bananas?!

I don’t know how it is that I always seem to end up with blackened bananas in my fruit basket. I suppose at this time of year there are so many other fruits coming into season and being transformed into pudding (rhubarb, gooseberries, even strawberries) that poor old bananas, that winter standby, get forgotten. When eating them raw, I like my bananas bright yellow, just after the first tinges of green have vanished. Yes, yes, I know that they are easier to digest the riper they are, but once they start to develop brown spots, eating them as is just isn’t an option for me. Puddings and cakes are the way to go then. I’ve given recipes for my unctuous Banana cream before, but if you’re faced with REALLY black bananas, what then? Banana & cherry cupcakes are one option, but only use one banana. What if you’ve managed to overlook four bananas and can’t bear the thought of wasting them?

I was in this situation at the weekend and couldn’t find quite the recipe I had in mind, so ended up combining a couple of ideas, as is often the case. Nigel Slater’s chocolate muscovado banana cake was my starting point, but I had envisaged a dark chocolate cake, rather than chocolate chips. Here’s what I did:

Chocolate Banana Loaf
Chocolate and banana loaf

250g self-raising flour, sifted
1 tsp baking powder
125g butter
235g dark muscovado sugar
2 eggs, beaten
4 overripe bananas, peeled and roughly mashed (add a squeeze of lemon juice to prevent oxidation)
1 tsp vanilla extract
100g dark chocolate

Grease and line two loaf tins (you can make one large cake using one tin, but I split the mixture between two and freeze one). Heat the oven to 160°C fan, Gas 4.
Cream the softened butter and sugar together until light and fluffy.
Beat in the beaten egg and vanilla extract, then fold in the mashed banana.
Melt the chocolate over a pan of hot water, or in the microwave, if you prefer, and allow to cool slightly before folding into the mixture.
Fold in the flour and baking powder.
Transfer to the prepared loaf tins (or tin if you’re going for the jumbo option!).
Bake for 35 – 40 mins (or 50 mins if you’re baking the larger cake), testing with a skewer that there is no sign of uncooked cake mix.
Leave to cool in the tins, then serve and enjoy with the virtuous feeling of having transformed unprepossessing beginnings into the most delicious chocolatey cake!

Another favourite of mine is simplicity itself to prepare and happily converts the blackest of bananas into an amazingly sophisticated dessert. The recipe came originally from John Tovey’s Wicked Puddings book. You can tell how much I’ve used it by the splattered pages and the lack of spine – although that is partly due to one particular labrador in his puppy years… The joys of a full-length bookcase in the kitchen cum dogs’ bedroom!

Leo at the hunt
Brazilian Rum Banana Cream – serves 4

300ml double cream
2 tbsp caster sugar
1 tbsp coffee essence
2 tbsp dark rum
2 ripe bananas (works well with yellow ones too if that’s all you have!)
Crumbled meringue shells or amaretti biscuits to taste
Grated dark chocolate to serve

Whip the cream with the caster sugar, coffee essence, then fold in the rum.
Roughly chop the bananas and fold into the cream mixture.
For added texture, fold in crumbled meringues or crushed amaretti biscuits.
Transfer to four sundae dishes and grate dark chocolate over.
Chill before serving – and wait for compliments!